Homemade hand wipes

Homemade deodorant
How It's Done
Step 1: Shop
Assemble the ingredients:
2 cups (16 ounces) 3% hydrogen peroxide
2 cups (16 ounces) distilled water
¿¿ cup baking soda
1 ounce unscented shampoo (available at drug or health-food stores)
Step 2: Mix
Gently combine all the ingredients in a large bowl until the baking soda dissolves. Pour this mixture into a 1-gallon lidded container, such as a milk jug. Let it sit for three days with the lid on loosely to allow gases to escape.
Step 3: Bottle
Fill a plastic bottle that has a trigger sprayer with the scent killer. It must be clean, so buy a new one from a hardware store or online (usplastics.com).

Make Your Own Scent Killer Spray
Looking for a low cost alternative to buying the scent killer spray and the carbon spray to stay scent free in the field.
Scent Killer - 7.57 liter recipe
3.758 liters (1 gallon) of Hydrogen Peroxide (3%)
3.758 liters (1 gallon) of distilled water. (DO NOT USE TAP WATER!)
473.184 ml (2 cups) of baking soda.
236.592 ml (8 oz) (2 cap full) of Sport Wash or unscented soap.
Mix in a large bowl (don't shake up in milk jug) so the baking soda dissolves) and pour into jug.
Let sit open for several days, so the chemical reaction settles down, and don't leave in a tightly sealed container! I use 2 4 liter milk jugs with a screw on cap. I have several used sprayers and fill them from one of the two jugs.
Here's a smaller version of the recipe above if you only want to make a little to try it out:
Scent Killer - Small
16 oz. (2 cups) Peroxide 3%
16 oz. (2 cups) Filtered water
1/4 cup baking soda
1 Cap full sport wash
Mix in a large bowl (don't shake up in milk jug) so the baking soda dissolves) and pour into jug. Let sit open for several days, so the chemical reaction settles down, and don't leave in a tightly sealed container! I use a 1 litre milk jug with a screw on cap. I have several used sprayers and fill them from the jug.

Quick and easy weights
Trappers are always looking for weights to use in drowning sets or to just secure traps in rivers and ponds. I solved that problem by buying one bag of Quick-Crete, a quick setting concrete mix. I use any type of container; coffee cans of all sizes, milk cartons with the top cut off, or any type of containers of different sizes. I mix up a batch of the concrete mix, pour it into the containers, add a small hook or eye screw to each container... Let harden and presto, all sizes of weights to use in the coming season...


Home Made Boot dryer
A boot dryer I have made: Using 1 1/2 PVC pipe, cut a piece about 1' long and put it in a workbench vise. Glue a tee on to this pointing up. Glue another 6" piece (horizontal) into the tee and put an elbow on the end with it pointing up as well. Cut 2 pieces about 18" to 24" long and glue into the top side of tee and top side of elbow. Cut the top end of each of these pipes on a 45 degree angle in the direction the toe of the boot will be. Finish it off by putting a rubber plumbing connection ( with hose clamps) on the bottom horizontal piece and hook your wife's hair dryer to it. Works good for any boots, usually has a temperature adjustment, and can be used from one year to the next. I used a hair dryer that my wife didn't want any more. Also works good for drying some fur and costs a fraction of what a commercially made boot dryer does. Tip provided by Jerry L. Mueller


Skunk Odor Removal
Mix all ingredients together in a plastic bucket;

1 quart hydrogen peroxide
1 cup baking soda
1 teaspoon liquid dish soap

Use a sponge or cloth to wipe the animal, can do the inside of the mouth but KEEP OUT OF THE EYES! Mix as needed, doesn't store well after mixing.


Speed Dip
When using speed dip, substitute Coleman lantern fuel for gasoline and the drying time will be greatly reduced. To remove speed dip, soak in mineral spirits and use a wire brush to remove. Anytime gasoline, lantern fuel and mineral spirits are used, do so outdoors because of fumes and keep it away from sparks, flames or heating elements. (ie. hot water heaters)



Lure Holders
I use sections of bamboo its tough and you can drive it in the ground. Just cut it off above and below the joint sharpen on end put sheep wool or cotton in the end, you can put fur in the end for site appeal. Works great at castor mound sets, you can pre-lure and cut them any length. In frozen ground you can drive a rebar stake in to get a hole started and the put in the bamboo. And you can pick them up
and reuse them. This tip provided by Gary Mather



Set Locations
Locations may not look the same in different parts of the country.
Farmland where there are a lot of row crops will seem somewhat different than the
rolling prairies of the Dakotas. Woodland areas will also seem somewhat different when it
comes to selecting set locations. Set locations for snares will differ also.
There are common threads that will be evident in the set locations of different terrains.
These common threads are where the canine travels to hunt and where the canine travel
just to get from one place to another. For hunting - remember edges -
like the edges of fields and where edges intersect are best like where bean field, corn field and pasture connect. For just ease of travel -look for saddles in ridges as an example.


Lure Holders
I was taught at an early age that its a no-no to apply lure directly on the ground. The ground tends to absorb the lure's odor rather rapidly which deadens the odor. To prevent this, I put the lure on or in something so that the odors can travel freely into the air. I know there are a wide variety of lure holders being used by trappers - so give us a tip on what you like to use.
For water trapping, I like to find a hollow stemmed dead weed. These usually are abundant along most creeks. I'll break off the stem which is about the diameter of a pencil and shove the hollow stem into my lure bottle. This crams the lure into the hollow cavity of the weed stem and then I will push the other end of the stem into the ground or in the pocket set and there's a natural lure holder. It's off the ground and has a reservoir of lure in the hollow stem that will keep emitting odor.

For dirt holes, I like putting a wad of rolled up dead grass in the hole for my lure holder. Also this will give the canine something to try to pull out of the hole since its obstructing its view of the bottom of the hole. While he's trying to get this grass wad out of the hole, its moving its feet around
and increasing my chances of a catch.

Mink
Mink sets in spring runs and springs are productive mink locations. The mink will visit these places at all times of the year, because here there are crawdads, frogs and salamanders living in the silt and mud. At these locations the reptiles will be hibernating in the winter. These springs are not likely to freeze in the coldest weather. Pockets, other holes, or cubbies can be created and will pay off at this location.